Rawla Bisalpur: Rajasthan’s Hidden Royal Retreat
Words by Kerol Izwan. Photos by Rawla Bisalpur and the author.
I had always imagined Rajasthan as a place shaped by dust and light, where time slows and the land carries memory. Growing up, films painted villages under an open sun, where rooftops shimmered in heat, cattle wandered down empty streets, and stories were spoken in silence rather than words. I wanted to see it all: the rocky hills, the golden sunsets, the way people lived alongside wildlife, and the quiet rhythm of days shaped by tradition. I wanted to feel what it meant to step into a life that moves differently, slower, yet fully alive.
Last December, I found myself finally in that imagined world. A last-minute plan meant there was no direct train from Jaipur to Jawai, so I chose the longer route. A bus to Jodhpur, followed by a train to Jawai Band, became not just travel, but a transition into something entirely different. As I left the city behind, buildings thinned, fields opened up, and the pace of everything slowed until the landscape itself felt like a breath, waiting for me to step into it.
Photo above: The tree that tells stories. Located just in front of Rawla Bisalpur’s entrance, it’s a charming sign that you are about to enter the palace grounds.
Jawai Band greeted me without ceremony. From there, the road to Bisalpur felt unassuming, almost modest, until Rawla Bisalpur appeared, quiet yet commanding in its own way. I was welcomed by Veer, one of the co-owners and a member of the family that still lives within its walls. In 2019, Veer and his brother Paramveer left behind city life—Veer in engineering, Paramveer in pharmaceuticals—to return to their village. The decision was deliberate, shaped by responsibility rather than spectacle. Hospitality became a natural extension of this return: a way to keep the family palace alive, rooted in the land and in its stories, rather than a project to impress outsiders.
Rawla Bisalpur is small and intimate, with just four rooms, each a fragment of history preserved. From the 1930s Indo-European guesthouse to the nearby 18th-century ancestral palace, the architecture and design speak of lineage and care rather than extravagance. Painted in cool white with subtle canary yellow accents, the palace feels open and light. Curves, hallways, and corners remain untouched, allowing the walls to whisper their stories quietly. Everything is intentional. Heritage is not polished. It is lived.
Photo above: The grandeur overlooking majestic Rawla Bisalpur, igniting nostalgic memories that are about to unfold before your eyes.
Photo above: A narrow path, chirping birds, and the gentle Rajasthani winter breeze guide your steps to the room.
Photo above: Paramveer (left) and Veer, two brothers dedicated to sharing their heritage stories with the current generation, with Jawai Dam as a backdrop and their Maruti 4WD ready for safari.
Each of Rawla Bisalpur’s four rooms has its own personality, yet all carry the same quiet elegance. Spacious enough for two, the interiors remain true to the palace’s heritage, with cool white walls and canary yellow accents that keep the spaces light and airy. The style and bedding are unmistakably Rajasthani, yet never flamboyant, offering comfort without excess. A simple sofa provides a place to rest, while a rustic work desk is comfortable enough for writing or planning the day’s journey.
Original furnishings and handcrafted details create an atmosphere that feels both lived-in and special. The building’s age brings a soothing, naturally cool ambience, so air conditioning is rarely needed unless you truly want it. Windows frame views of the rocky landscape, and private courtyards invite quiet mornings with tea or evenings in reflection. Staying here is not about show; it is about feeling past and present coexist in harmony, where every corner tells a story without needing words.
Photo above: Unpretentious Double Deluxe Room, an ode to the bygone days of Rajasthan.
Photo above: Spacious room for two, with either a queen or twin bed.
Photo above: The bathroom is designed with rustic charm and practicality in mind.
The safari is the heart of the Rawla Bisalpur experience. Set off in a sturdy Maruti four-wheel drive, the journey feels less like a tour and more like stepping into a way of life. For generations, the village has co-existed with leopards. For the locals, the predator is a normal part of the landscape. For me, it carried a mix of excitement and quiet fear. Riding through rocky hills scattered with cacti, succulents, and flocks of birds, the Maruti engine took everything in stride, from dusty village paths to steep mountain climbs.
Everything moved slower here. Winter made the ride pleasant, starting in the late afternoon when light softened. At one point, we stopped atop a mountain peak overlooking Jawai Dam, the largest man-made dam in western Rajasthan.
Photo above: Resting atop one of the rocky peaks of Bisalpur Mountain, overlooking Jawai Dam. A breathtaking view.
Photo above: I was amazed by the rocky landscape here in Bisalpur. It almost makes me reminisce about my time in Colorado’s Red Rocks. This version is special in its own way.
Stretching quietly below, framed by granite hills, it is home to leopards, crocodiles, migratory birds, and a serenity that makes it a prized spot for eco-tourism, trekking, and birdwatching. As the sun dipped, the safari ended simply yet memorably: a picnic at the back of the Maruti jeep, the sky washed in golden dusk, the landscape stretching endlessly. It was cinematic, adventurous, and quietly Indian, like a modern Indiana Jones moment set against nature.
Photo above: By far the most beautiful sunset, and a humble moment to witness such beauty in a foreign land. Sunsets never fail to impress
Photo above: An Indiana Jones–style adventure in India, with Rawla Bisalpur and its handsome, robust Maruti 4WD.
Returning to Rawla Bisalpur after the safari brings the day full circle. Courtyards are calm, rooms are simple, and the quiet settles naturally. From the pool, the view frames the rocky hills and low slopes with sparse cacti, while the sky opens to soft gold. The palace does not need to impress; it simply exists. Rawla Bisalpur remains a place where past and present meet with ease, a space rooted in lineage yet profoundly human.
Staying here is not about grandeur, but about slowing down, listening, and allowing the place, the land, and the people to tell their stories at their own pace. It is quiet, restrained, and enduring—a reminder that the most lasting experiences are often the ones lived without pretense.
Photo above: The pool view next to the rocky mountain—a straight-cut, living postcard.
Photo above: On the opposite side, a sky view of Bisalpur village—quaint and quiet.
Rawla Bisalpur is a labour of love, dedicated to preserving over 300 years of heritage. A significant portion of each stay supports restoration of the 18th-century palace, sustains the local Rabari community, keeps traditional festivals alive, and protects private farmland near leopard habitats. These efforts prevent commercial development and safeguard the environment. Staying here means becoming part of this ongoing story, helping to preserve both culture and land for future generations.
Photo above: Facades of Rawla Bisalpur.
Photo above: The cozy hallway opening to the rooms.
Photo above: A wall that has witnessed history.
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