Rediscover Alor Setar: A Roadtrip to The Heart of Kedah

I couldn't remember the last time I visited Alor Setar. If I try to recall, it was probably more than 10 years ago, when I was studying in Penang and made a brief day trip to the city. That visit didn’t really give me a true sense of Alor Setar, nor did it offer a proper introduction to its essence. Last week, I decided on an impromptu trip up north, with no particular expectation, just the simple idea of a road trip. Was that a wrong assumption? Definitely not.

Arriving in Alor Setar, perhaps better described as a town rather than a city, immediately evoked a sense of quaintness. Despite being the capital of Kedah, the place gives off a quiet, almost sleepy vibe. The historical charm is undeniable, seen in the Mughal-inspired architecture of Masjid Zahir, the city’s iconic landmark, and the colonial facades of buildings like the Pos Malaysia building. Though many of these structures are beautifully preserved, some sadly sit abandoned or in disrepair. It’s a shame, really, considering the potential they hold. With a little imagination, these buildings could easily be transformed into rustic cafes or unique trinket shops, breathing new life into the area.

Prior to my 24-hour stay, a visit to some of Alor Setar’s landmarks was a must. The Muzium Diraja Kedah stood out with its historical exhibits that offer insight into the state’s royal heritage. Sadly, no photos are allowed inside—a small disappointment, especially in 2025, when such restrictions seem out of place.

Around the Alor Setar Tower, I found myself wandering through the surrounding area. If I were to romanticize it, the tower’s design vaguely reminded me of something you might find in Seattle, albeit a shorter version. This spot offers panoramic views of the city. Lined along the same street are a number of charming cafes, including Istana Kuning and Simpol (the cafe), while nearby Aman Sentral Mall adds a modern touch to the historical surroundings.

During my walk, the old typography on signages and the nostalgic logos on buildings caught my attention. These vintage elements are remnants of a bygone era, with old shops still standing and contributing to the city’s unique character. Old buildings now house clinics, mosques, and an eclectic mix of businesses—fine dining restaurants side-by-side with humble burger joints, adding to the city’s charm.

Geographically, Alor Setar sits along the peaceful Kedah River, which contributes to the overall calm atmosphere. Jeti Pekan Cina, a quaint and peaceful spot, caught my eye, though it was completely deserted when I visited.

Wandering aimlessly through the city without a checklist is my favourite way to explore. There’s something special about getting lost, and Alor Setar’s charm truly unfolded this way. The contrast between the older part of the city where traditional food stalls, long-standing restaurants, and street vendors thrive, and the newer sections with chic cafes and modern grocery stores, makes for an interesting experience. Barbershops, printing presses, and trading shops continue their daily routines, offering a glimpse into the enduring spirit of this quiet city.

As I didn’t have much time to explore, I didn’t get the chance to visit every famous landmark. However, this trip did give me a nice insight into what Alor Setar is all about. Next time, I plan to go deeper—perhaps a food trip, as I’ve heard the city is famous among food lovers too. Until then, I’ll leave with a fond impression of Alor Setar. Whether you drive, take a 40-minute flight, or ride the ETS train, Alor Setar is not too far from KL if you're in the mood for a nice, chill trip.